Monday, October 24, 2011

Itinerary: Pondicherry

A rare combination of French influence in a South Indian milieu.

Day 1: Check into Dune Eco Village & Spa (tel: 0413-265 5751) a sprawling spa resort on the beach with cottages which have names like Bangle House and Doll House, as well as an animal enclosure and an organic farm. Spend the day here and try a session of Watsu, a water shiatsu treatment done in a pool, meant to ease aches and pains. In the evening head to the secluded beach to watch the sunset, and relax with just surf and sand for company.

Day 2: Wake up in time for a spectacular sunrise on the beach. Take in French architecture, Pondy history and culture with a walk through the French quarter. You can also head to the Government Museum at Rue Romain Rolland, near Bharathi Park which houses an exquisite collection of Pallava bronzes, sculptures from Chola and Vijayanagar temples, terracotta figurines, French period furniture, paintings, pre-historic artefacts and other knick-knacks.

Have lunch at Carte Blanche (tel: 234 3067), at Hotel De L'Orient, with French decor and Creole cuisine. After an afternoon siesta visit Aurobindo Ashram on Rue de la Marine. Wander around the serene premises amidst flowers, burning incense sticks and muted chants. The shops at the Ashram stock dresses, pottery and lovely handmade paper. Head back the hotel for dinner.

Day 3: For a change of scene, take an early morning walk in the Botanical Gardens near the New Bus Stand, which is nearly 200 years old and has over 1,500 species from all over the world. In addition, there's a musical fountain, an aquarium, a toy train and a rock garden. Have breakfast at Cafe Rendezvous (tel: 233 9132) which offers 30 different kinds of omelettes. After this make your way to the beautiful Plage Paradiso beach via Chunnambar Backwater. You can easily spend the day here and try your hand at a few water and beach sports. In the evening have a sundowner and dinner at Risque on Goubert Avenue (tel: 222 7750).

Day 4: After an early breakfast, head south of town to Arikamedu, a unique historical site, believed to be an ancient Roman trading centre. Visit the ruins of a seminary and residence built here for Jesuit missionaries in the 18th century. All that remains are eerie walls, which make for an interesting walking experience. These walls have mixed bricks. After lunch at Au Feu Du Bois, only serving wood-fired pizzas, take a river cruise up to Veerampattinam beach and while away time till the evening. End the day with a meal combining French and Spanish cuisines at Le Club.

Day 5: Pack in some eclectic activities. Spend the morning learning how handmade paper is produced at the Sri Aurobindo Paper factory. The factory store has an amazing range of paper and stationery. After lunch, head to Auroville for a taste of cheese at the La Ferme cheesery and watch how different varieties are produced. Dine at the quaint Satsanga (tel: 222 5867) which serves French and Italian cuisines before heading home.

My must do: Kalki Koechlin

Must shop: The Sunday Market is a great place to pick up some casuals. I manage to get good bargains here because, I think people are charmed by my Tamil.

Must eat: For South Indian food I usually go to Surguru on Vallabhbhai Patel Road. I can't get enough of the Masala Ghee Roast Dosa that they make.

Must see: The Repos Beach is something I never fail to visit.

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